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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Pretty much. Could not get the owner to move on upgrading the site, enabling basic security like HTTPS etc, so I forked out a bunch of my own hard earned and restarted the forums as I didn't want the community to die off.
  2. 4 points
    Hi all, I have been slowly amassing a large Tau collection to paint in a scheme I've always wanted to do. The look and feel of the army is inspired less by the Japanese "gundam" aesthetic - which I hate, and more of hard sci-fi, such as the future scenes in The Terminator and the Aliens Colonial Marines. I actually started the project with probably the two most ambitious pieces. First, my kit-bashed Sun Shark/Razorshark bomber - made from a Sun Shark kit and 1/48 Mil-24 Hind. This was the first real kitbash I have done with two completely different models, and I'm happy how it came out, even though after what I'd guess was probably 100 hours of work, I kind of abandoned it because I was sick of working on it. The real challenge came from getting a Piranha cockpit to fit into the Hind fuselage - this alone took I'd say half the build time. However I had the look in my mind of a see-through canopy with an orange tint, so that's what I worked towards - if I'd gone for a opaque canopy it would have taken half the time. There's an absolute mass of plasticard on here as well, most of which you can't see so I suppose that's a good thing. Anyway, I hope you like it. WIP shots of my second largest piece in the army, the Sturmsurge. I'm working on this now, almost up to the oil-wash stage. I've also finished my test model for the infantry. This was done all with dry-brushing because I hate edge highlighting and I do whatever I can to avoid it these days. Not perfect, but not too bad either and pretty quick. And no edge-highlighting. Still to go I've got: 2x Riptides 2 x Ghostkeels 3 x Devilfish 4 x Broadsides 6 x Stealth suits 30 x Fire Warriors 30 x Pathfinders **** me haha. Cheers Cal
  3. 4 points
    I call myself Blackadder. I suppose I should offer my credentials as a means of introduction. I have been scratch building with styrene plastic for about 20 years. My son got me interested in the Warhammer 40K Universe at that time and we began purchasing model kits from GW and FW but the Superheavy tanks and the Titans really caught my interest. My First attempt was a Lucius Pattern Warhound modeled on thew ForgeWorld resin kit. I called my creation Lucie..... We'll meet up with Lucie further down this post but the pride of my Titan Stable is My Warlord. Luteus Vexant Stands 160 feet (49 meters) tall. This is not a kit, everything is handmade from scratch fabricated from individual bits of styrene. There are well over 10,000 bits of plastic glued together some no bigger than the head of a pin. "Luteus Vexant" is the name I chose for the Warlord It in Latin loosely translated means "Dirty Harry." The Titan has a full interior with five levels completely furnished and manned with a crew. I am still in the process of wiring the lighting and it needs more paint. My current Project is an Emperor Titan. Shown here along side my Warhound Lucie The basic octagonal structure that is. There are still two levels of surface detail to apply but aside from the AA cannon emplacements this will be the height of the Imperator version of this Titan. https://i.imgur.com/z7u8CZ9.jpg I'm so confused as to what the seemingly interchangeable names and classes of the Emperor Titans. Initially I set out to build a Warmonger version to match my Lucius Warlord and Warhound (seen here for scale). Lucie was my first major scratchbuild project and she is slightly more robust compared to the Forge World Warhound Version. https://i.imgur.com/B8BcNAW.jpg This aerial view gives a better perspective of the upper deck. https://i.imgur.com/SV2cXJw.jpg And finally a head on shot with the various Adeptus Mechanicus Skitarii slated to infest the upper works of this monstrosity.
  4. 4 points
    Oil wash done. Jebus that took a long time haha, never done an oil wash on a model this size. I’m going to have to do a second clean up on it. A million q-tips later....
  5. 3 points
    That is a nice colour scheme. Most impressive. My entry is finished too. The imperial assault heroes were a bit laborious. I didn’t feel much of a connection with them as I have not yet played the game. The aim is to get enough painted for a game and see how it goes from there. The land speeder is done in the same halved colour scheme as the rest of my army. It is somewhat customisable. The typhoon missile launchers are removable and the assault cannon can be added.
  6. 3 points
    "Working" from home, on my Wing commander inspired dropfleet. It's hard to pay attention to the conversation on the phone when you're painting, somehow I'm managing.
  7. 3 points
    Thanks for the reply. I's not demotivation so much as my Township duties that take precedences over model building. That and illness over the past few months that drained my ambition for this project. All that seems to be behind me now and over the past few weeks I've addressed the problems with renewed vigor.... On with the next installment. Are You Ready For This: One of the first things I built for this Titan was the Plasma Cannon. Quite possibly the coolest weapon conceived by GW/FW and I chose this for my Emperor Titan. https://i.imgur.com/VIZTmxK.jpg Of course I had no idea how big to make it and it has been one of my main concerns whether it was too big or too small for all these years until yesterday as I write. Yesterday with the Titan in one piece for the first time this year I decided to bite the bullet and hang the weapon on the mount arm with the following result. https://i.imgur.com/fiBcKXJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Kswc1Dg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/r22XPNz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/V2xYYqZ.jpg In all I'm quite pleased with the result.
  8. 3 points
    I’ve had these bad boys sitting in the pile of shame for years. Managed to complete them in less than a week. Really happy with the result.
  9. 2 points
    Taking a leaf out of Krefey's book, I've gone with a Fallout Deathclaw as my main attempt, with a Reaper Bones Avatar of Sokar as my bonus model. Let's see if I can actually get painting done this month!
  10. 2 points
    Ooh, something I can do. (Usually these comps have a theme for a model I finished LAST month ... Or I just don't have anything on hand to do.). A Wraithlord for my Eldar army. I bought a grab bag of sprues at Cancon 2020 and only just got around to going through them. The wraithguard don't count - I had them done and based yesterday. The Wraithlord, however, I only started assembling this morning. ).
  11. 2 points
    Fine, I suppose i could attempt one. Here's my WitchKing on Fell Beast. That's monstrous right?
  12. 2 points
    Thanks All. I believe I won in spirit - simply on the grounds of having finished something this year.
  13. 2 points
    Working on the mastadon again after a long hiatus. In the process of edge highlighting the gold. Top sections are done so far. Of course, I also discovered I missed some spots when cleaning the resin after I peeled off the masking I had to airbrush the tracks. Guess it will be battle damage!
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Remember to thin your paints
  16. 2 points
    The next update. No game since the last update - I don't think I'll be playing anymore games until after I get the 9th ed rules.
  17. 2 points
    So enough of history past Here is my Current Project. First Time Together This Year: Toppling damage has been repaired. Blackadder is on the mend. All's right with the world and today is the first time I am putting this all together for a progress report. TADA! First I am finally confident I have solved the problem of the superstructure so here is the solution. The egg crate structure at the rear of the deck can be shifted back as needs be but it will form the base for the rear superstructure components. The blue boxes simulate the height of the rear components above the front components. It was there that I had the problem and now we can proceed with the structures on the deck. There will be a cathedral roof between the two rear towers and the huge main gun will protrude between the statues. https://i.imgur.com/Ht6FCh9.jpg Here's a side image. And a left side image aerial view. Ho hum you say; what else is new...... It's a surprise even for ME!
  18. 2 points
    Ha! None of my work is ever finished.... Just reviewing these images taken five or so years ago makes me itch to improve the interior and add more detail to the engineering deck. Again I'll address the ruddy great hole in the command deck and use the waffle lenses to flesh out the walls and floor. Oh! and I forgot I have updates for the Emperor Titan as well. Thanks for the reply. EB
  19. 2 points
    Cypher and Fallen done. Next step is getting 2x squads of Suppressors painted, while sourcing 10x Storm Bolters for my Death Watch squad... Though, probably need to see the Marine/DW codex for 9th Ed before I kitout a Death Watch squad.
  20. 1 point
    In good news, not divorced. Wife was amazed when I pulled this out of storage. The Catapult is there as a scale reference. This is a monster. It's Vinyl, so not long after I originally built it it suffered some damage in summer due to overheating, and spent about 10 years on a shed shelf, so it's filthy.
  21. 1 point
    Which was perhaps the highlight of the massive and unreasonable overreaction from the horde of manbabies. I'm all for it. If you both have painted armies then it's a non issue. I also expect it will not be a blanket rule for all games, but rather part of a specific mode of play.
  22. 1 point
    Nice theme. I normally paint up the grunts for an army before moving onto the more interesting units, but given this months theme, I’m going straight for a frost Giant from blood rage.
  23. 1 point
    So, I have 2 pieces I want to work on this month. The Zoat will be my main focus with Fabius Bile my "bonus" attempt if I can get the zoat finished early enough.
  24. 1 point
    Battle damage is the solution to every mistake when painting a vehicle. Or assembling a vehicle. Or handling a vehicle. It's looking great though 🙂
  25. 1 point
    Between real life and this forum and various other things, my hobby time hasn't been very active of late. The last thing I did was to put a base coat of duck egg green on the interior of my mastadon on the 10th of Feb, which I'm adding to my Celestial Lions chapter. Figured I'd start a plog to help motivate me to keep on going with this project. I'm planning on trying out some techniques I've never tried like using weathering pigments and oil based paints. Need to start upping my hobby game 🙂
  26. 1 point
    Well done Krefey, a deserving winner. That is as very nice paint job. I was very impressed with those ships too Kn’thrak. What’s the next challenge?
  27. 1 point
    I will preface this by saying that I am by no means an expert painter. I just haven't put the hours in behind all the techniques that will be outlined below to master them. I have done quite a lot of research into the various techniques over the years as I've tried to learn and develop new skills and improve my painting though. This is a distillation of that experience and research in one place that I hope will help other hobbyists. There are a wide range of painting techniques that can be used to achieve different effects. You don't need to be a pro painter to try out these various methods, but you do need to keep practicing them in order to improve and get the techniques perfected. As with all skills it takes regular practice to improve. Something that is handy to get to grips with for developing your painting is colour theory (which will help with colour choices, mixing colours etc), but that is a separate topic in itself. To start some basic terms Base coat - this is the initial colour(s) you place on the model. As you try different techniques, you'll likely find you are using more colours to get the initial base coat done. Shading - this is the term used for making areas on a model darker Highlighting - this is the term used for making areas on the model lighter Ferrule - This is the metal piece between the handle of the brush and the bristles. It's what keeps all the bristles in place. It's important to keep paint out of the ferrule, as once paint gets in there and dries up, it's a sure fire way to ruin your brush, no matter how cheap or expensive the brush is! Brush Belly - The belly of the brush refers to the volume of the hairs of the brush. Different brands / series of brushes have different bellies. The belly of the brush is what helps store paint in the brush, while you are painting. As a general rule, the larger the belly, the fewer times you will need to go back to the paint to add more to the brush. Techniques Drybrushing - This technique is a fairly easy one to get to grips with, but as mentioned, the more you use it, the more you'll realise and develop new ways of doing it that will change how you use it. Drybrushing is commonly used to apply highlights to raised elements / edges on a model. The first thing to make sure is that he brush you are using is completely dry. The brush you use should probably be an older brush or a brush that was created specifically for drybrushing as the process can be pretty harsh on a brush. To do drybrushing, you get some paint on your brush, then wipe off most of it on a piece of paper towel or similar. This should leave a little it of paint on the brush. You then drag the brush tip lightly back and forth perpendicularly to the edge (s) you want to highlight. This should then pick out the edges as the paint in the brush catches on them to develop a highlight on those edges. One thing you can try is to only drag the brush in one direction to simulate light coming from a single source. This can be used as part of other techniques like Object Source Lighting (OSL) or a Zenithal technique. Edge Highligting - Edge highlighting is used to add a lighter tone to the (generally sharp) edges of surfaces. This effect is easier to achieve on sharp edges like the joint of armour panels on a vehicle for example, but with the right paint consistency and a decent brush can be done easily on any edge. There are two main ways to do edge highlighting: - The first is to get the paint on your brush and simply draw the brush along the edge you wish to highlight. This requires some level of brush control in order to keep a reasonably consistent thickness to the edge highlight and to follow any contours etc. - The second method is to thin the paint a little, so that the belly of the brush soaks it up and then drag the edge of the brush along the edge you wish to highlight. This will produce a much finer / sharper highlight than the previous method, however this method does need a suitable brush as not all brushes will have hairs that will bend in a manner that keeps the bristles together. Zenithal - This technique is often referred to as zenithal priming and and most effectively achieved using an airbrush. This method is used to generate a gradient transition of shade to highlight on your model (most commonly from directly above, but you can always adjust the "high point" of the model by adjusting where the angles hit the model). To do this method, you need to pick 3 colours. A shade colour, a mid tone and a highlight colour. The most common colours used are a dark grey or black for the shade, a mid tone grey for the mid tone and white for the highlight. That being said, you can use any colours you want as long as you have that gradient of colours from dark to light. To do a zenithal effect, you can either put the shade layer down first, then at a roughly 45 degree downward angle, spray the mid tone down on the model. Then finally from a top down angle, spray the highlight colour. The effect of this technique will show you where the shade, mid and highlight tones should go when painting your model. Or, if you use the glazing technique, can be used to help create a quick gradient undertone that you can glaze over to get a good colour transition effect relatively easily. Glazing - Glazing is a technique that a lot of people probably consider to be a more advanced one. Realistically, the hardest part of glazing is getting the right paint consistency rather than the actual application of the paint. Glazing is most often used to help blend transitions between sharp edges of colour or over a zenithal base layer. To glaze, you need to thin your paint down quite a bit. You can use water or some kind of flow improver or branded paint thinner depending on your preference and the type of paint you're working with. you want to get the paint thinned to the point where it is transluscent. The idea being that it will adjust the tone / saturation of the paints underneath it without obscuring it. So you're letting the paint under the paint you apply still come through the layer(s) you put over them. To apply a glaze, let your brush soak up the thinned down paint into the belly of the brush, then touch the brush to a paper towel / tissue a few times to draw out the excess water / thinning medium, but leaving the paint behind. Then, you need to draw the brush across the area you want to apply the colour to. However, there's a trick to it. When you are applying the glaze to help blur the transition between two colours (e.g. between the mid tone and the highlight) it will depend on which colour you're using to do the glaze. If you re using the darker of the two colours, you want to draw the brush down from the lighter area towards the darker area. If you're using the highlight colour, the reverse is true. This is because the most pigment will be deposited by the brush at the end of the stroke. When applying a glaze over a zenithal underlayer, you generally want to draw down from the highlight to the shade. It's important to note that because the paint you're using is very thin, it will very likely take multiple layers to get to the end result / colour you want. Just make sure you let the previous layer dry before applying a subsequent one. This is a work in progress and I will be adding other techniques or adjusting the ones already here based on feedback or my own experience.
  28. 1 point
    Make sure you lick your brushes.
  29. 1 point
    That looks awesome dude. You're really selling the gritty, realistic look.
  30. 1 point
    Nice work mate, you are cranking them out! I really admire your progress.
  31. 1 point
    Time To Take Stock..... After a week hiatus I revived with new inspirations on how to proceed. The Lower sixth of the cannon assembly vexed me until I realized where my problem lay. It is pretty much what is found wrong with a majority of scratchbuilds; they are too square and straight sided. The lower rail needed some slight curvature to the sides and base. https://i.imgur.com/q3M6lG9.jpg Fortunately the material I am using has a taper for ease of extraction from the mould. https://i.imgur.com/biPfc7S.jpg Playing on that feature I came up with the correct angles to duplicate the artist's rendering. https://i.imgur.com/10kf0vn.jpg This will be more apparent in subsequent images.
  32. 1 point
    Ok. So it's had a bit of a facelift, and as mentioned, an extension. I'm considering doing a second extension to the deeping wall (to make effectively a 6x6' play area, although the mountain corner will be omitted). But anyway, the only thing i'm not really happy with is the mountain, so i'm open to suggestions for that.
  33. 1 point
    Nice work, always loved the look of the Hind. That's an ambitious conversion and you've pulled it off.
  34. 1 point
    That Tau Gunship is 80s sci-fi as **** and I love it.
  35. 1 point
    Looks real nice, just needs a Tallarn army to fight!
  36. 1 point
    Been a while but coming back to YuJing to cleanse my palette after the 40k stuff. Haidao sniper. He's pretty bad ass but was a shocker to paint.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    So over a year ago I got roped into an AoS skirmish campaign - that morphed into a full AoS League through a local GW store. I had to withdraw because of family commitments but I’ve built the army up to over 3500pts of painted models. Time to start showing them off - and showcase new units as they are finished. First up is my most recently finished unit - a 30 strong unit of Nurgle aligned Warriors of Chaos.
  40. 1 point
    I think MK has the way of it. Expect some terrain boxes with very specific rules for each piece of whatever, much like they did for Kill Team. 8th had rules for some of the terrain, but people only used them a bit or sometimes because we all had our own. GW could push for a standard layout (like Warcry) or... how's this? they have a system where each player brings half a board (22" x 30") and terrain to use like Underworlds.
  41. 1 point
    Hi all, Thought I would start uploading pics of work I'm doing for clients and my own personal projects. These British Para's are a commission job. Mixture of Warlord and Artizan figures, the truck is from Rubicon.
  42. 1 point
    This pic is for all my assembled Eldar. I've got more on sprue but will continue working on this lot for the time being (and the next few updates). I want to finish the Spirit seer next and am going to paint the bases on one of the units of dire avengers so easy to tell apart.
  43. 1 point
    Played the 1000pt game this morning, won, and the MVP was my Wraithblades.
  44. 1 point
    bit more done .
  45. 1 point
    Gday John, I’m also based in Perth, welcome aboard. I too didn’t transition into AoS (was a bit of a pisstake when it first came out but is apparently better now) instead focussed more on 40k while maintaining a bit of an interest in old school warhammer and also 9th age (a more inherently balanced experience than GWs issues with power creep). There’s a group of gamers for pretty much any system around though. Hit me up if you want a game or info on the clubs around...
  46. 1 point
    Here we go. Everything done up until now. Tactical Squad #1 Tactical Squad #2 Inceptors Terminators are posted earlier in the thread, so I won't repost them. Next step is a squad of the Fallen and Cypher. Originally they were intended to be Legion of the Damned, then Chaos Chosen for an Alpha Legion list but when I got Roboute I also got Cypher and their path was set. There's a few cute ones in there, the painted one is reading from the Lectitio Divinitatus (in a mocking tone, of course). There's the one going full Hamlet with a skull, as well as one fellow having a robust discussion with an Imperial Guardsman. After these guys, there'll be a squad of Death Watch who'll come in via Drop Pod (or Teleportation, depending on how CPs in allied detachments work), 2 squads of three Suppressors to add to the Primaris aspect of the list and I'm thinking of buying a dinged up secondhand Rhino to carve up and mount a marine on it who has pulled the Storm Bolter from the pintle-mount and is firing from on top of it in some parody of action films. After that we'll see how close to 2,000 points the list is and work from there.
  47. 1 point
    Sure, but i think it was a mistake (one of the few they have made in recent years) not to just plow ahead with 'these are just the new models, deal with it'.
  48. 1 point
    The only thing I dislike about the primaris is that they felt the need to create a fluff explanation for just fixing space marines to be correctly proportioned. I think now that we are getting primaris equivalents to some of the few remaining 'old' marine units, we'll see the old models gradually be retired over the next few years. As far as the term 'first born', I think it's not a bad one. They need something that sounds decent I guess. The new lore seems very focused on moving the timeline meaningfully forward, rather than just rehashing badab, Armageddon, 13th black crusade ad nauseum, so I don't think they're going to remain too relevant for long, especially since the established characters all get to primarify themselves.
  49. 1 point
    One of my mates has decided to game the great Emu War of 1932! A few miniatures and some terrain building later and we were set to battle the birds! With relaxed Covid19 restrictions here we had a play test! Our piece of Western Australia... The army ready for action... Vic, by the truck watching Ray and Bert venturing into the bush... Ray from the Pickering Brook gang warily avoiding some nasty local wildlife... The full intro to “Through the fence and Defence...To the wheat fields beyond” is on the TSOG blog TSOG Emu Wars BTW do a search on Google for Emu Wars if you want details on how the Australian Army took on some flightless birds and lost 🤪...
  50. 1 point
    They are all scared of the ground...
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